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Power Steering Control Valve Re-sealed.
Besides leaking transmission fluid all
over your garage floor, running your power steering pump ''dry'' will cause it to
succumb to premature failure due to wear.
Leaking in the steering system can be caused by a variety of reasons. Power steering
hoses can break if routed incorrectly, ram cylinders seals can develop leakage as
well as the control valve seals. Rusted or damaged components can also contribute
to fluid loss.
Power Steering control valve rebuild kits specify use of auto trans fluid in
the system as clear types of power steering fluid voids warranty due to the seals
incompatibility.
Although fluids should be confined within the control valve, seals can allow
seepage from either end of the valve.
Ball stud socket usually needs replaced as it can wear to a point as to jeopardize
safety. This one was replaced in the not so distant past and still felt snug. Jack
up the vehicles front, use jackstands. Be safe.
'65-66 Mustangs came with a lightweight ratchet style lug wrench. The handle
end was designed to pry off wheel covers.
Between fluid leakage and dusty conditions,a cast had formed that incrusted this
specimen. Removal of the two cap retaining screws illustrates loss of fluid past
the outer seal. Remove retainer nut to disassemble outer spring and spacer parts.
Keep parts together and inspect & clean every piece. Unscrew ram hoses and
allow fluid to drain into pan.
With a 1/2'' wrench remove the two bolts that secures control valve to the tie
rod and slide assembly from socket.
Remove spool and seals/ Disassemble control valve, inspect. This piston (spool)
suffers from a rusty and worn sealing area. Valve's bore survived nicely,without
any rust pits that could command complete valve replacement.
Spool of excellent quality was found in my ''used control valve'' parts box.
Good parts are getting harder to find.
Automotive Associates (Redding's oldest engine rebuilder) kindly allows me to
use their non caustic psrts washer.
Wire brush follows with a light mist of natural toned paint. Allow paint to dry
before reassembly. Keep it clean!
Use clean trans fluid to lube valve and piston,then slide it on in.
Don't damage the seals during assembly. I use only fingers to install the correct
seals from rebuild kit.
New O-rings go on the aluminum reaction plugs after the piston, washer, and springs
are installed in valve.
Keep everything clean and lubed for best
results. Power steering is serious business, don't take chances.
Ford employed a hose clamp @ the tie
rod to anchor power steering hard lines, to prevent metal fatigue and cracking.
Install the control valve back on the
tie rod and tighten all the lines. Grease tie rod at the bottom center of socket
area.
Fill system with fluid. Stop to check level in reservoir before the full quart
is empty. Look for leaks. Check for hoses binding in use by turning wheels side to
side.
Pull the coil wire from coil and distributer cap and crank engine over about
ten revolutions center front wheels, top off steering fluid to correct level. Do
not overfill or it will puke out any excess when fluid reaches operating temperature
from expansion.
Replace coil wire and start engine, don't reach through the steering wheel when
starting , it can break your wrist if proper procedures were not followed! Check
for binding, hoses rubbing, proper operation and leaks.
Double check fluid level.
Wheel covers have an extra large access hole for the valve stem.
Good job, now lets see how well it works on the road.