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Total restoration is not always your only option, good results can be obtained by using the''ala carte'' method. This approach is the preferred choice for ''daily drivers'' and requires very little down time without the significant investment required for a total restoration . Pick an area in need of attention and service or renew this particular area as a sub-assembly (not a u-boat) in the restoration process. The major hitch with this method is avoiding ''redundant labor.''

How much you spend on restoration is directly proportional to the thickness of your wallet, here's the formula.

Parts and supplies for typical early coupe, from Shasta Mustang Supply approx. $4500. to $8500.

Shasta Mustang's labor cost usually come out to about $7,500 for the average '65 or '66 well worn but mostly complete coupe. (not one snatched from the gates of Ponycar Purgatory). At my reasonable current labor rate of $45.00 per hour this represents about four weeks worth of labor !! Such a bargain, actual work time is more than double that figure. QUALITY AT A PRICE YOU CAN A-FORD.

• What you get: Everything* from the cowl forward is removed, inspected, repaired or replaced with new high-quality parts and detailed to duplicate as new condition. Seams resealed (structural repairs extra), front suspension and steering components rebuilt or replaced as necessary. Four wheel brake inspection with repairs or replacement as per factory spec., transmission r&r, all wheel and axle bearings and seals, driveshaft & u-joints r&r. All wiring inspected/ repaired or replaced, door and window mechanisms serviced or replaced, hinges rebuilt or replaced and glass adjusted. All bolted on sheetmetal reinstalled or replaced and aligned, exterior trim, bumpers, all lights and door handles etc. removed and replaced as needed. Windshield and rear glass r&r, show quality interior restoration with all weatherstrips replaced, trunk detailed, fuel system, heater assembly and components inspected/ restored or replaced. Stereo installed (if purchased from Shasta Mustang), correct appearing fasteners wherever applicable, extensive cleaning, inspection and detailing of almost every part that has not been replaced, and some that have been.The end result is A BEAUTIFUL, solid, rebuilt, turn key Mustang without problems; THAT'S GUARANTEED! A car that anyone should be proud to drive!

• * Exterior body work and re-finish is NOT included. Engine and components removal and re-install are included . Floor pan replacement or rust repairs are extra as necessary.

• Sublet items include (your choice of shop); exterior body and paint, engine rebuild, transmission rebuild, differential rebuild if needed, also front end align, custom wheels, tires and exhaust system mods, if any.

By using this as a rough estimate as cars and customers needs vary, my approx. price for the 65-66 coupe rebuild would be around $12,500 to $18000.+ subletted extras .

• Factors that determine price are generally as follows:

• Year of vehicle, as a rule newer models have more parts, less parts available, at a greater cost.

• Condition of vehicle, rust buckets needing lots of body work can get very expensive. Wrecked or missing many parts .

• Options desired either existing or adding to vehicle for example, console, a/c, power brakes or power steering, audio systems.

• Your ultimate goal, a nicely restored driver could cost less than half as much as concours ''trailer queen'' yet be barely a noticeable difference to the average person. Oddly enough, over-restored examples seldom share the drivability as ones built to drive. This is because more emphasis is often devoted to cosmetics and originality than functionality.

• That fancy ( and expensive ) super duper extra high performance high revving gear driven high lift long duration roller lifter/ roller rocker 12 1/2 to 1-forged piston bored out to .060 ported polished and blueprinted aluminum headed supercharged hi-rise dual plane air gap dual quad aluminum intake equipped engine with multiple spark discharge ignition nitros system with a lightweight flywheel and a centerforce clutch and scattershield with headers and 2 1/2'' side exiting exhaust and stage 3 stainless steel Flowmasters that won't run on less than 110 octane fuel and everything that goes along with it. Things like over-heating issues, fuel milage, rear end ratio, traction and strength of gears, transmissions, reinforcing of unibody, that is nearly impossible to drive for more than 1/4 mile at a time. No guarantee .You got a problem with that, Mister Fatwallet ?

• Frivolous add ons like a "bumpin' sound system," ultra modern wheels with big, fat front end wasting tires, portawalls, $12,000 velvet paint job, how about a sun roof or maybe a roof rack ...or better yet BOTH, and...and... and a trailer hitch..some of them big mirrors..and..and...a bar buoy cup holder, the extra large size....and..........hey, what do ya mean ''calm down''??

• Meticulous undercarriage detail or Rotissorie resto's.

All this can be accommodated, it's just more money!